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Question about: Extended Length Base (y-axis) for V2 Handibots

Posted by gclayton 
rasbldrs Wrote:
> I can't find the hood cut file.. I go to handibot
> wiki, user docs. and all I get is Hood Modificatio
> n.sbp How am I supposed to open .sbp file with my
> vcarve it has to be .crv doesn't it. Not starting
> out good This is not looking like a good idea sad smiley
> prove me wrong please...

I would hope that Brian is providing both but a .sbp file is ready for your handibot, that is what you get when you save toolpaths in Vcarve. If you want to look at it before cutting, there is a preview function on your handibot.

This mod is not for the faint of heart but I figure if I can do it surely you can.
Brian Owen, ShopBot Wrote:
> Yea--we're not currently working on an extended ve
> rsion of the accessory base...but the ELB (Large S
> heet Tool) is built onto sticks of 1.5" T-slot Ext
> rusion--which would make it pretty easy to build a
> n accessory base onto the tool frame by picking up
> some pre-cut pieces and corner joints from somewhe
> re like McMaster or Misumi. The T-slots in the acc
> essory base are spaced at 1.5" as well--so the rot
> ary axis can bolt straight onto 1.5" Aluminum tslo
> t extrusion

On the one hand, I wish you would as I know it would be just right like everything you do. On the other, you are right it will be relitivly easy to make our own either with T-slot or with wood, or a combination of the two. I've got to quit being so sorry and get something worked out as turning has been one of my main use cases.

the .sbp is the cut file for making the hood modification--it can be loaded directly into your handibot and run to make the cut. Lemme dig up the .crv and I can stick that up there too for anyone that wants to make adjustments.
Ok--just updated the wiki page to have both the .sbp file and the .crv file for the mod.

I put a .crv file with all views of the LST base up on the wiki as well: [sites.google.com]

the scale is 1:1--so it should be perfect for designing jigs...let me know if you'd prefer another format.

....I'll put a 3D STP model up too actually.
Awesome thank you.

Also, regarding the cut of the hood, I will just say I did it, it worked perfectly. Just make sure you've aligned the hood straight and that it is on the bend, and you should be good to go.
Yea--its one of the crazier things we've ever asked a customer to do--I really didn't want to replace the whole hood--the cost of a new hood would have bumped the price of the upgrade up--and I already felt like it was getting high...and to be honest I think its kind of cool that the handibot is used to modify itself.

And--now with better large part cutting ability--people should be able to mill other replacement or upgrade parts! I'm waiting for someone to make a 48" handibot--you'd just need rails, a motor and two long pieces of Aluminum Extrusion! The little parts that hold the rail can be cut on the handibot and you'd just need more of them.
Thank you Everybody. I hope I get time this weekend to upgrade will let you know how I make out...
Is this clicking sound normal?


That sounds like the end of the motor shaft hitting the plastic holder at the far end of the tool. That plastic piece is there to prevent the motor shaft from "whipping" as it spins--it hasn't been a problem for the shorter handibot motors...but once you get over 18" or so, any wobble in the shaft will resonate and get extreme enough to make the motor stall during quick moves. I didn't want to make that holder too tight on the shaft though...a piece of plumbers tape to deaden the sound maybe? That's my quick fix for the moment. I'll think if there's any other way to limit the sound of the motor shaft without restricting its motion.


We'll be here for you if you need any assistance over the weekend!

It's not a big deal. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't bad. It doesn't really bother me.
OK a big shout out to Brian for the little bit of help needed for a successful install of the LST. For anyone wondering about the upgrade it was a piece of cake Brian has everything spelt out in the instructions and just take your time and you will have no problems.
Now to figure out a jig for long length signs up to 12" tall and 48" long if any one has any please pass along Go and upgrade today.smileys with beer
Ok. I started to use the upgraded version. The biggest issue I see is dust collection. The router needs to sit lower than it did in the original base, and now the dust collector doesn't reach the end of the router. Any thoughts on this? I'm thinking one just needs to re-engineer the dust collection holder, and basically make it 2 inches higher. Any other thoughts? Brian have you dreamed anything up on this?


One option would be to kind of combine the router collar (the little plastic ring that can clamp onto the router body) and the lower half of the router bracket...into a move-able spot to clip on the dust foot. I've done this a couple of times for other reasons but had never really been happy with the way it turned out.

Another option is to redesign the dust foot. For 2.5D cuts on sheet goods--you can get away with a slightly different type of dust collection where you have a spring loaded plate that stays in contact with the material surface at all times. Dust sprays up into a cavity surrounding the bit and is sucked out by vacuum. The dust collection on the Shaper Origin kinda works this way. I've made something like this to be used as a pressure foot for the reciprocating knife accessory I've been mentioning in the optical registration thread--to hold down thin materials while they're being cut. It could also just be used as a dust foot...though less versatile.

One other thing I've tried was for Eric Schimelpfenig..he needed a dust foot that took up less room so I made one that joined to the bottom face of the router rather than wrapping around it. The diameter of the ring was the same as the router diameter. Being attached to the bottom of the router, it would stick much farther down that the current dust foot.

I need to take another crack at the pressure foot this week or the next...could probably adapt that into a more standard dust foot as well.
For now, I've milled out a little extender out of MDF. I just took the original dust shoe design (clipped off the part where the vacuum tube screws in) and cut it out of MDF. So the vacuum still screws into the plastic. Since I only 1/2 MDF laying around, I made 3 of them and screwed them together. It works ok, but not great. I'm not exactly sure why though. I think there is less dust being collected because the design is less closed.

I'd be interested in seeing the pressure foot you are talking about.
Here's the first pass at it.

The problem was that the big bottom part collided with the inside of the handibot base..limiting travel.
open | download - IMG_0752.jpg (2.46 MB)
So bare with my crappy paint drawing (I'm at work), but couldn't you do something like this:


That might avoid the clearance issue. I wonder what it would do to suction though. It also might be noisy as hell.


For sure--that would solve that problem. Though it can't get too thick for the bit won't be able to reach the material without bottoming out the pressure foot. Fun problem though--problems with lots of constraints are good!

Do you have the part number on the motor connector plug going into the control unit? I'm trying to make it easier to switch back and forth.

Also, what's the part number on the screws you use for the T-track (and else where on the handibot). I'd like to have a few more hand

I've also been thinking about ways to make the switching back and forth go easier. I might have a solution.


Nice Dan!

Here are the T-nuts: [www.mcmaster.com] 98001A130

The connector is a WAGO : [eshop.wago.com]

The WAGO catalog looks like they use a distributor model only---I'd be happy to sell you a pair for $8 (they're a little pricey, I know...). You could also find any 4 pin connector you want on digikey--the motors don't draw a huge amount of current so I think you'd have lots of compact options.

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