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First observations

Posted by SimonSays 
First observations
January 24, 2014 08:52AM
I finally had time (and warm enough weather) last weekend to take the handibot for a spin.

Initial problems:

I had trouble with the drivers not loading so I couldn't communicate with the handibot. I decided that I must have done something wrong when I installed the software so uninstallead and reinstalled then saw the error message that I didn't have .net framework. (I'm using an older laptop which had just had a clean windows XP install) Once I got that installed, I had communication with the handibot.

The first time I tried to zero X and Y, the script paused after the bot came up to the X the first time then when I continued the bot ran up against the Y stop and kept trying so I shut it off, backed off slightly and tried again. The second time it zeroed correctly.

Your instructions on how to zero Z might work if I coud move the router manually. Mine doesnt move even with a fairly firm push. Fortunately I saw the hints from other users and used the up down buttons on the screen.

Not being able to manually move the bot is a BIG pain when inserting or changing the bit. Basically, I have to flip the bot on it's back, use the software to move it down to where I can get to the collet (which requires power be on and the computer connected). Then I turn the bot off and insert or change the bit then have to turn the bot on, re-establish communications with the computer and use the software to move it up to where I can flip it back upright on the table. Fortunately, I can arrange things to where I don't have to change bits a lot...

I used the suggestions in this forum to turn the speed down ect and was able to get reasonably good test cuts on some scrap ply. I've got the router speed down to 1 and the X and Y at 1.5 which seems to work well on plywood. I'm new at CNC so I'm sure that I'll want to tweak things as I get more experience but I thought it was a good start.

So is my handibot the only one that's so stiff it can't be moved or is it something that was changed aftert he manual was printed? MIne was in the second batch and one of the last to get shipped I think.
Re: First observations
January 24, 2014 03:59PM
Hi SimonSays,

Thank you for your initial observations. We will use your comments to help improve our documentation to improve user experience.

If you have an overly tight Z motor, we may want to check the alignement. The best practive is to raise the Z as high as it will go and loosen the 4 bolts that holds the motor to the motor plate. This should allow the motor to "relax" into position, releasing any bind that might be on the motor. Tighten the four bolts and check to see if the motor travels more freely. Report back and we can try other options if needed.

Re: First observations
January 24, 2014 04:55PM
I do not know if it will help, but ...

I am not able to move my handibot when the power is on. When I turn the power off, I am able to nudge the router down enough to change the bit. I also put the handibot on its side to change bits instead of upsidedown.

In my opinion, the glue in plywood is strong and hard to cut cleanly. If I am doing a sign with lettering this is not a problem. If I am trying to do 2.5 or 3 dimensional work, I get better results with a solid piece of wood.

I hope this helps.
Re: First observations
January 25, 2014 07:52PM
I tried loostening and re-tightening the bolts as you suggested. There was one bolt that I couldn't loosen with the Z as high as it would go because theat put the router next to the bolt and I couldn't get enough leverage holding the allen key vertically. So it took some fussing around with raisng and lowering the Z to get the bolts loosened. I retightened but no difference to the stiffness of the Z axis.

I did check with the power off per Tim's observation but no luck with that either....

It's true that I'm not that strong (I'm glad the handibot isn't any heavier than it is) but I'm not able to push the router at all.
Re: First observations
January 28, 2014 02:22PM
SimonSays, can you get your hands on a decent set of T-handle allen keys? For the motor alignment routine to work properly, you need to be able to tighten the bolts while the router is in the highest possible position.

Our next step will be to loosen the Z motor plate -to- gusset bolts and the carriage plate -to- gusset bolts while the router is in the highest position. Similar to our first exercise, the goal is to relieve any tension/bind and allow the the components to "settle" before retightening the bolts.

Let us know how this goes.

Re: First observations
February 02, 2014 11:53PM
I got a set of T-handle allen keys and am now able to losten and tighten the motor bolts with the motoer in the highest possible position. One question though. When I do this, should I have the handibot on or off?

Another thing I noticed was that there's a bit of interference between the router body and the angled plastic at the front. This happens when the widest part of the plastic on the router passes the shield. I probably wouldnt't have noticed if I wasn't running it up to the highest point. I't actulaay more noticable coming down because it tends to catch slightly. I expect tha ta little sandpaper will fix it....
Re: First observations
February 03, 2014 09:28AM

You can loosen the motor at the highest position with the tool on or off.

It sounds like your front guard may have been bent a few degrees too far. Can you attach a picture with a few from above? If that is the case, we can send you a replacement.

Re: First observations
February 04, 2014 12:06AM
Taking the picture was easy. What is not easy is figuring out how to get a picture in here... It seems that you have to have a url for the picture. At least it's not obvious that you can do it any other way. So the best I can do is a link to a post on goggle groups. I hope this works... This only took most of the evening but it's too cold in the shop to make sawdust anyway smiling smiley

picture of handibot from above...

Re: First observations
February 05, 2014 08:27AM
Check your PM for instruction on how to get a replacement.
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