Hi Brian, please see my comments below.Brian Owen, ShopBot Wrote:
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> When setting up tools at the factory, we do the fo
> llowing:
> 1. Run the z-zeroing routine using the little plat
> e on the side of the cut area.
Yes, I have done this many times.> 2. Check to be sure that this results in an accura
> te z-zero--and if not, we adjust the recorded thic
> kness that the tool uses to calculate the distance
> between the metal z zero plat and the material tha
> t the tool is sitting on.
Yes, it does.> 3. Re-run the zeroing routine with the plate to do
> uble check that any changes we made were accurate.
I have done this as well.>
> The Z zeroing process first bumps the z axis into
> the hard stop at the top of its travel--this way t
> he tool can reference the bit length that it measu
> re (something that can change frequently) to the a
> bsolute top of the axis's travel (something that n
> ever changes).
In one case, it MISSED the fold out zeroing plate completely, and dug into the material below the tool. In another case, it BENT the zeroing plate and kept trying to move downward. And YES, I did have the alligator clip attached.> So when customers receive the tool and run the XYZ
> homing routine in quick lauch--the tool bumps into
> the top limit of the Z axis and then recalls the d
> istance that it measured when we ran the routine i
> n the factory.
Understood. This will always work as long as th
> e bit has not moved in the collet (shouldn't happe
> n if the collet is tight) and as long at the z axi
> s motion is not being obstructed by an obstacle.
Understood.>
> As I've mentioned in past threads--I have a really
> sure-fire way of zeroing my tool (which we should
> perhaps give as an in-app option).
> 1. I drive the Z axis down until it hits the botto
> m of it's travel.
> 2. I hit the orange "0" button next to the Z posit
> ion read-out on the tool.
> 3. I send the Z axis to the height of my material
> by typing the desired position into the Z position
> readout and hitting "Go"
> 4. I then hit the orange "0" button again--this is
> all to make sure I have enough downward travel to
> reach full depth on my cut while keeping the Z as
> low as possible.
> 5. I loosen the router bracket and allow the route
> r to slip down until the bit touches the material.
> 6. Tighten the router bracket to fix the router in
> place--at the correct zero location.
>
> So I guess that's 6 steps--but really it just take
> s a moment.
I have tried this, as well as combinations thereof, but without success. As noted before, it seems to think that Z=0 is below the bottom plane of the tool no matter what I do. And, I now have a broken bit, a bent zeroing plate, and one of our parts damage. Really at a loss, and don't trust the machine.
Thank you.