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X&Y Zero position

Posted by owlpak 
X&Y Zero position
January 14, 2015 12:03PM
Hi, im Oscar, new Handibot Owner, and i got this problem, the fist time i setub the handibot with the XY Zero function on the panel it works perfectly,
the 2nd time i do it, the X axis works perfect, but the Y axis keeps running infinitly, like if the proximity switch isnt working.

I already try reinstall all, UR settings, everything. Thanks for help
Re: X&Y Zero position
January 14, 2015 09:04PM
I have the same issue in both X and Y.
Re: X&Y Zero position
January 14, 2015 09:56PM
I've had trouble with this, there is a bit of flex to the base plate, make sure it is properly supported on a flat surface.

If that doesn't do it, you may have to shim the switch.

You can tell if it is the switch by looking at the control software. There is a virtual light for each of the switches.
Re: X&Y Zero position
January 16, 2015 11:12AM
Make sure your Z isn't triggering the switch...

There are 3 proximity switches on the Handibot, one for X, Y and Z. They are all on the same circuit.

When you do the Zero routine, it starts moving the machine in X, and then expected to hit a switch. When it hits it, it pulls back and touches off. It does the same for Y. If you start the zero routine with the Z switch triggered, that will happen on the Y axis.

I would do this all the time because I'd pull up my Z too high and do the Zero routine. What you want to do is look at your control panel screen, jog the machine out into the middle and then pull your Z up and down. Look at the input lights and see what comes on and off. Once you see the input come off (I think it's input 2, I don't have my machine near me right now) you should be able to run the zero routine fine.

Just make sure that you five it enough clearance, as sometimes the Zero routine will pull up the Z to move over the material and get into the switch. Does that make sense?
Re: X&Y Zero position
January 19, 2015 06:15PM
Also check that the y axis switch is connected securely to the handibot. Mine was doing the same as yours, turned out the switch was loose.
Re: X&Y Zero position
January 20, 2015 04:25PM
Excellent advice above.

If your problem is not with the Z axis prox having already been triggered, then look at the switches. You can test any of them by depressing the tiny little black button (it's a "V" shape like a very small shark's tooth). You should see the indicator (it's on the red panel of the software) for Input #3 going on and off. As noted above, all prox switches are on the same #3 input, so all should work the same.

If the indicator is working correctly, then failure to detect the switch in zeroing is probably an alignment issue ... you should be able to take a look up close and see why the switch is not being struck and adjust things a bit to get it back into action.

If the indicator is not working. First check the plug (as suggested in earlier post). If it's not the plug then the switch is broken. Give ShopBot a call and we'll get one to you. We'd like to come up with a little more robust prox switch.

Ted Hall, ShopBot Tools
Re: X&Y Zero position
January 20, 2015 07:29PM
Thank you all, as matter of fact i check the prox switch on Y axis, results that the switch was kind of loose, i press it back in, and looks is working again, thank all for amazing support and community!
Re: X&Y Zero position
February 16, 2015 04:08PM
Also, make sure your switch didn't shear its cover off like mine did. (See attachment)
Attachments:
open | download - brokenswitch.jpg (565.4 KB)
Re: X&Y Zero position
February 16, 2015 04:12PM
Here is what the switch looks like in context. (See attached)
Attachments:
open | download - brokenswitchcontext.jpg (565.2 KB)
Re: X&Y Zero position
October 05, 2015 08:33AM
Hi all,

I've been having the same issue with the auto zero function on the Y axis which turned out to be a loose proximity switch. I re-tightened the screws which seems to have resolved the issue but I'm concerned about the robustness and reliability of this switch and specifically mounting to the etched circuit board. Has anyone replaced this with another switch or spun a PCB to improve the mounting and reliability?
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