If you are trying to wifi connect directly to the tool, try using "go2fabmo" as the password. If that doesn't work it may require a reset. Billby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
This is from ShopBot support: "For the Vectric/design software, the software downloads and upgrades are now managed in the Vectric Users portal. In order to get access to download your Vectric software you will first need to register it in their new Centralized portal if you have not already. You will need both your Username and your license code in order to register. I am attaching a docby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Hi all, Just a reminder that Wayne's event is coming up quickly! In addition to Tim, I'll be there along witl ShopBot's founder Ted Hall who'll be talking about 5-axis tools. If you're a Texas Handibotter or just interested in CNC in general I guarantee you'll have a good time and learn a lot. And don't worry...Wayne welcomes both Aggies and Longhorns!by Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Have you tried hitting the Enter key after each letter as you're entering the text?by Bill Young - Handibot Forum
The Satechi ST-U3B1NI is the one I've used and know it works. Unfortunately I couldn't find this exact one on Amazon and more....there's a new version with a few changes that may or may not work. Their new aluminum-bodied replacement doesn't work for me as you've already figured out! If you can't find one I've got an extra.. Send me a message with your mby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
There are a couple of things I'd suggest looking at first. One is the Z-axis speed in your VCarve file. If it's set too fast the tool can "lose steps" and vary the cutting depth. There are also settings for the maximum move and jog speed in the FabMo Settings menu. Those are in inches/minute and I usually set them to something conservative like 120 I'd also check tby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Hey Daniel, If you have a FabMo card with the red Edison carrier on top then you have to use the usb-2-ethernet hub dohickey. What looks like an Ethernet jack on the lower board is actually an early method to connect peripherals like switches to ShopBots. If you have a newer style FabMo card without the red board on top then you can plug your Ethernet cable into the jack on the top board anby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Hey Jesse, The .sh file is included in the same zip file with all the Windows reflash files. The link is on page 6 of this doc: Billby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Hold down the green button for 8 secs or so and it should go make to AP mode.by Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Hey Josh, Just as an FYI, there is a CNC gathering in Austin next Friday and Saturday, hosted by Wayne Locke. I'll be there with a Handibot on an indexer that I've been using for pen(cil) turning. Billby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Hey Eric, You can do a USB re-flash using a Windows computer to get it up to 1.4.2. The instructions are here: Once you're at 1.4.2 you can update to the current version using these instructions:by Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Hey Eric, If you are looking for the .fmp files for current and past releases, you can find them at: There's a shiny new version out, 1.6.0, that you'll see if you go there. Instructions for updating to that are available at: Billby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Thanks for the kind words but I'm not sure I have much in the way of insights. There are lots of very cool CNC joinery techniques and when I first started out with my ShopBot I tried to be very clever and come up with lots of new ways to connect parts and panels. As I get older I've tended to simplify things and try to be more material and fastener agnostic. I'm just as likely thesby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Hey Dave, I did a tiled file with a pocket and profile and did what I expected, but my test is pretty simple and the error may show up with more complexity. I'll be glad to look at your .crv file if you want and see if I see the same error. Billby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Hi Dave, I'm not sure what's happening for you. I just tried it with an array of 1/2" holes in a 36"x8" blank in VCarve 9 and it seems to have worked the way I expected. I've attached a screenshot of my VCarve file, showing the original drawing window and the 3d preview of a random tile...tile #5. Are you seeing something different than that? Billby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
V carving is very depth critical, and if there are any variations in the surface it won't carve correctly and you'll get variations in line width, etc. Unless your staves are REALLY consistent in shape I'm feeling like you'll have problems unless you model every one, or machine the top surface of each one to get a consistent shape. Can you cut the text with a straight bit,by Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Thanks for all the help this weekend Mark. Hope you had at least a little fun!by Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Here's the current shipping version..let us know if you need more.by Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Brian is right...gcode is the native language of the underlying be motion system for FabMo so if you can generate gcode, FabMo will be much happier. And as you've discovered, opensbp doesn't support all gcode commands. You can find a list of the supported commands on the ShopBot wiki atby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
The values in your file look like they are in millimeters Is your Handibot set up for metric files in the configuration menu? Billby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
I've tested gclayton's mods on a Handibot and it seems to cut fine, but definitely causes an ugly crash if you try to proview it. My guess is that you are correct...that the GOTO is causing it distressby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Files for that jig in a bunch of formats can be downloaded from Github. Just be aware that it was created for the original Handibot and hasn't been updated for the newer tools, so you may need to modify things like hole placement a little to get the X and Y zero locations or the mounting holes to match up to your tool. If you do make changes or improvements, please share them by addby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Hi Daniel. The reason it looks like it's making so many passes is that your file is setup to cut with a 1/16" ballnose which has a pretty small stepover, so each pass is offset just a little bit to clean out the area. If you can use a bigger bit with a larger stepover percentage and still get the detail you need, especially a bit with a flat end, the cutting will go much faster. Hereby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Brian, When you're using the swing out z zero plate, are you first clipping the alligator clip to the bit? It has to be used so that the circuit is completed when the bit touches the plate. You can test it by touching the alligator clip to the swing out plate...The #1 input indicator should light up in the red DRO panel. Billby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
Hi John, Just to clarify, after doing the manual rezeroing that Brian suggests, as a first step re-run the file and check the depth and z-zero location before manually moving the tool around with the arrow keys or trying any homing or re-zeroing. Also when moving the tool around with the arrow keys be especially careful about going too far and hitting the stops. It's easy to do, belieby Bill Young - Handibot Forum
I buy from Norva Plastic in Norfolk Virginia, They ship all over the world and are great folks to deal with. If you just want a little bit you might look a hdpe cutting board blanks. Lots of plastics suppliers sell them, as well as Amazon. That said, there are lots of grades of HDPE so you take your chances with cheap cutting board planks. Billby Bill Young - Handibot Forum